Chiang Mai, the largest city in Northern Thailand and the second largest in the country, offers so much to see and explore. We spent three days here, which was enough time to take in the main attractions. However, you could easily stay longer if you want to venture further afield or do more activities like a Thai cooking class or visit an elephant sanctury*. From stunning temples and lush jungles to incredible Thai cuisine, Chiang Mai is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Northern Thailand.
*Research ethical elephant sancturies before booking and choose a purely observational one that doesn’t allow riding, bathing or feeding.
Getting to Chiang Mai
We took the second-class sleeper train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, which cost around £23 per person and usually takes approximately 14 hours. This included a private bed, shared toilets, and access to a small restaurant that served breakfast, dinner, and drinks. We booked the tickets through the Thai Rail app, and I’d recommend reserving them several weeks in advance, as they sell out quickly.
This was a fun experience, especially since we had never taken a sleeper train before. The beds were surprisingly comfortable, and the train was relatively quiet. Since there’s no Wi-Fi on board, we downloaded a movie on Netflix and stocked up on snacks for the journey.
Around 8 pm, the staff converted our seats into beds, complete with a pillow and blanket. You’ll still need an eye mask and earplugs, though, as the lights stay on and some passengers were snoring. Overall, it was a great experience, and I’d definitely recommend it.
Where to stay
The train station is a little out of the centre so after our sleeper train we took a taxi (using the Grab app) to U2 and iSmile hostel, which we booked on Hostel World for 200 Baht (£4.50) per night. Our dorm had four beds and was clean, comfortable, and quiet. The hostel offers free tea, coffee, and bananas, as well as laundry facilities. They were also helpful with booking excursions and transport. It’s close to the center of the city and opposite Victoria Café, where we enjoyed breakfast daily, and is just minutes from a 7/11 and a local night market. I’d definitely recommend this hostel if you’re visiting Chiang Mai.
3 days in Chiang Mai
Day 1: Monks Trail to Wat Pha Lat and Doi Suthep Hiking Trail
We began our day with a 10-minute taxi ride to the start of the Monks Trail. This trail takes around 30-45 minutes, following a well-marked path through the forest to Wat Pha Lat temple. It’s steep, but the view at the top is worth it! At Wat Pha Lat, there’s a small waterfall and a scenic viewpoint overlooking Chiang Mai.
From here, we walked up the road for 30 minutes to Chaloem Phra Kiat Pavilion viewpoint for another fantastic view of the city and stopped for lunch at Hug Him Doi Café. Afterward, we joined the Doi Suthep Hiking Trail. This trail is steeper and muddier than the Monks Trail and can be tricky to locate, so I recommend downloading maps or AllTrails. The hike to the top takes about an hour, but if you prefer, you can take a red songthaew instead. However, I’d definitely recommend the hike as it is very scenic and rewarding!
After an enjoyable (and very sweaty) hike, we eventually arrived outside the Doi Suthep temple, where we had lunch and browsed the local shops (of course I had to buy a pair of elephant trousers). Entry to the temple is 30 Baht, and you’ll want about an hour to explore. It’s beautiful, with some great viewpoints overlooking Chiang Mai. Afterward, we took a songthaew back to our hostel, which was convenient as many line up right outside the temple.
In the evening, we explored Chang Phuak Gate Night Market near our hostel, where we enjoyed local Thai cuisine such as khao soi, panang curry, pad thai, and mango sticky rice. If you’re visiting on the weekend, check out the larger Saturday or Sunday night markets.
Day 2: Sticky Waterfalls and Saturday Night Market
Through our hostel, we booked a songthaew to take us to the Sticky Waterfalls, about an hour from Chiang Mai. We split the cost with several other people using the Hostel World Chiang Mai group chat, which you’re automatically added to when you book a hostel there. This is a really handy tool to connect with other travellers and share transport. It worked out a lot cheaper than booking a tour and meant we had as long as we wanted at the waterfalls (2 hours was plenty of time.)
While guided excursions are available, they tend to be pricier and often include stops at “ethical” elephant sanctuaries, which may not be ethical despite the claims. Avoid any attractions where elephants are ridden, bathed, or fed. For a list of truly ethical sanctuaries, you can refer to this guide from World Animal Protection.
The Sticky Waterfalls are set in a lush green park with beautiful views. Thanks to the porous limestone rock, you can walk up the falls barefoot without slipping. We spent a couple of hours climbing the different waterfalls and exploring the park, where we also stopped for lunch. It was a great experience and highly recommended.
In the evening, we visited the Saturday Night Market, known locally as Wua Lai Walking Street. The market has an incredible selection of food, clothes, jewelry, and crafts. It does get very crowded, making it hard to move around, but it’s still a worthwhile experience.
Day 3: Doi Inthanon National Park, Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail, and Sunday Night Market
We booked a group tour through our hostel for around £30 each, which included transport, lunch, entry fees, and a local guide. You can book similar tours online through Get Your Guide.
Our first stop was Wachirathan Waterfall in Doi Inthanon National Park, which was absolutely stunning. We spent about 30 minutes admiring the views (and getting absolutely soaked from the spray – tip: bring a poncho!).
Next, we drove about 30 minutes to the highest point in Thailand. To be honest, this spot was slightly underwhelming, as there isn’t a viewpoint, just a sign and a small shrine in the forest. Some tours skip this stop, so you could save a bit of time and money by booking one that focuses more on hiking or other sites.
We then hiked the Kew Mae Pan Trail, a scenic ~2-hour loop through the jungle up to a viewpoint and down through open countryside. Although the summit was too misty for a clear view, the trail was beautiful, though it can be busy in places. I’d definitely recommend it as a day trip!
Afterward, we visited the Twin Pagodas, built as a gift to the King and Queen for their 60th birthdays. The pagodas are surrounded by lovely gardens, and on a clear day, there are stunning views from the top. Inside, you’ll find Buddha shrines and traditional art. It was nice to just gently stroll around the gardens and admire the scenery and artwork.
After a lunch of Thai dishes like coconut soup, stir-fried vegetables, and rice, we finished our tour with a stop at a coffee and tea farm, where we sampled local brews – a nice treat after a long day trip.
In the evening, we explored the Sunday Night Market, the largest market in Chiang Mai. Although crowded, it’s a fantastic place to try local food and shop for clothes and crafts. Khao Soi is definitely the best dish in Northern Thailand so definitely try it if you are here!
