We spent 2 days in Ninh Binh, a charming rural town located less than two hours south of Hanoi. It is often referred to as “Ha Long Bay on Land” for its breathtaking limestone karsts that rise dramatically from lush rice paddies and winding rivers.
While many backpackers experience this beautiful region as a day trip from Hanoi, I’d personally recommend spending at least two full days here. By allowing yourself 2 days in Ninh Binh, you can explore more of the local area at a relaxed pace.
Where to stay for 2 days in Ninh Binh
There are many beautiful, backpacker-friendly places to stay in Ninh Binh. I’d recommend staying just outside Ninh Binh in Tam Coc, which provides a perfect base for exploring the region. Tam Coc is a small lakeside town surrounded by rural countryside and local villages. The town offers plenty of restaurants, bars and shops and is close to all the popular attractions.
We fancied a break from hostels so we decided to stay at Lumi Garden Resort in Tam Coc – a beautiful, quiet hotel surrounded by lush green rice fields. Just 10 minutes walk from Tam Coc’s center, the hotel offers an outdoor pool, private rooms and free bicycle hire. It was a welcome break from hostels whilst still affordable on our backpacker budget. We paid £8.30 each per night for a private double room with an ensuite and free breakfast. (Obviously, if you’re travelling solo, then it’s going to be more like £16, which may be outside of your budget – sorry solo travellers!)
If you’re solo travelling, there are plenty of good hostel options available in Tam Coc. I’ve linked a couple of well-reviewed ones in the centre of Tam Coc below, and there are plenty more on HostelWorld.
Banana Tree Hostel – dorms from £6
Tam Coc Golden Sky Hostel – dorms from £6
2 days in Ninh Binh itinerary
Day 1
- Trang An boat tour
- Hoa Lu Ancient Capital
Trang An Boat Tour
On the first morning of our 2 days in Ninh Binh, we headed to Trang An for a boat tour. This is one of the most popular activities in Ninh Binh and it’s no surprise why. We booked our tickets on arrival for 200,000 VND at the Trang An boat ticket office. This is also where the boats depart from. We arrived around 10:00am and there were no queues. However, when we left around 1pm, there were a lot of tour groups, (probably on a day trip from Hanoi) arriving. So, I’d recommend coming in the morning to avoid any queues.
Is the Trang An boat tour worth it?
The Trang An boat ride was honestly one of the highlights of our Vietnam trip and I’d highly recommend it to anyone visiting Ninh Binh. At first, we were worried it might be overcrowded or underwhelming, however we found it to be a great experience.
There are a lot of boats at the start, but the boats are small, traditional Vietnamese which look very aesthetic on the water. Also, the area is so big and there are 3 different routes to take so after the first 5 minutes, most of the boats have split up in different directions.
Which route should I pick?
When you arrive at the boat, you have the choice of 3 routes:
- The first route includes 9 caves and 3 temples, so if you enjoy caves then opt for this one.
- Our choice, Route 2, includes a mix of 4 caves and 3 temples.
- Route 3 has 3 caves and 3 temples, so if you want to stop less and enjoy the scenery then go for that one.
We chose Route 2 but to be honest, you don’t need to worry about which route you take, all the routes enjoy stunning scenery, caves and temples.
What to expect on the Trang An boat ride
We shared a boat with 2 other people who had chosen the same route as us. As we set off, we were surrounded by huge, green limestone karsts. Soon, we turned into Hang Lam Lam cave, a low, dark, 60 metre long cave.
After the cave, we continued sailing towards the first stop, Thanh Cao Son Temple. This temple is dedicated to Cao Son, one of the legendary mountain gods of Vietnam. The temple itself was beautiful and surrounded by stunning views.
After the temple, the trip continued through dark caves and beautiful temples, all whilst surrounded by incredible views. It was surprisingly peaceful despite the number of boats on the water. The tour was a welcome break to the usual fast pace of backpacking and the hectic city of Hanoi!
At the end of the boat trip, we tipped our guide (after 3 hours her arms must’ve been aching!) and headed to Donald Bar and Restaurant for lunch. The restaurant has comfy outdoor seating overlooking the river and an affordable, varied menu.
Hoa Lu Ancient Capital
In the afternoon, we headed to the Hoa Lu Ancient Capital. As the name suggests, this was the first capital of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th century. It’s not a bad place to visit for only 20,000 VND, but there isn’t much to see. There aren’t any display signs to read about the history of the area, so it did feel quite underwhelming. We spent about an hour in the whole place.
The reason I still recommend going is for the great viewpoints. Near the entrance, there is a stone staircase leading to a great viewpoint overlooking the surrounding area. It only takes about 5 to 10 minutes to climb the stairs to this viewpoint.
Behind this viewpoint, there is a small shrine, behind which are some large boulders. If you climb over the boulders, you come to an incredible viewpoint overlooking the valley below. It’s a bit of a scramble over loose rock so you have to be careful, but once you’re there it’s a brilliant view.
In the evening, we walked into the town of Tam Coc and enjoyed pizza at Little Italy Pizza. As pizza goes in Vietnam, it was pretty good – I’d recommend it if you’re needing a break from noodles and rice!
Day 2
- Hang Mua Cave and viewpoints
- Chookie’s Bakery and Café
Hang Mua Cave and Viewpoint
On the 2nd day of our 2 days in Ninh Binh, we used the free bicycles from our hotel and cycled to Hang Mua Cave and Viewpoint. Ninh Binh is a great place for cycling because the roads are so quiet and flat.
We paid 100k entry before climbing 500 steps to the first viewpoint. This viewpoint offers panoramic views of the stunning rice fields below.
We then climbed the remaining steps to the the top of the viewpoint, where a stone dragon extends along the ridge, overlooking the vast valley below. It was definitely one the most beautiful viewpoints we had seen in Vietnam so far!
It’s very crowded at the top and you do have to scramble over loose rocks to get the best view, however it’s worth it for the stunning landscape that rewards you at the end.
The actual Hang Mua cave isn’t really worth visiting, it was pretty small and underwhelming. However, the surrounding area is perfect for a stroll, with plenty of nice cafés in a peaceful setting.
Chookies Beer Garden
For lunch we ventured back to Tam Coc and had banh mis from Banh Mi Lady. They only cost 30,000 VND and were so good. On our way back to our hotel, we stopped at Chookies Beer Garden which sells delicious homemade cakes and warm cinnamon buns in a beautiful outdoor setting. They also do fancy cocktails if you want to come here for a drink in the evening.
We relaxed by our hotel pool for the rest of the afternoon before walking back into Tam Coc for a stroll around the lake. For dinner, I had the best chickpea coconut curry at NGON Vegan Restaurant; even if you’re not vegan I’d highly recommend the food there.
2 days in Ninh Binh: Final Thoughts
Overall, we had a brilliant 2 days in Ninh Binh and we loved staying in Tam Coc. It’s definitely worth visiting if you’re planning a trip to Vietnam.
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